There are 2 primary styles, Cable OVER tunnel or Cable UNDER tunnel. I'm going to try your test! I should be able to think what is going on, but my head is a bit clouded right now and, I'd rather just experience it for myself.Built for us by our friends in Holland, these tower shifters are a great addition to your motorsports themed car, not just for appearances but they also function, they produce a shorter throw front to back and great side to side reduction. At this point I can only think that the linkage and such (the clutch is getting tired- it's pretty stiff now- 200k miles, with a good 40k miles after injecting a bunch more power) is degrading: all will be dealt with when I replace the clutch. Wife's car and mine both have the AC Delco in it, and we're both running with the DieselGeek short shifters: not sure what fluid is in the other car (I need to look it up- check with the PO). But I recently drove my car after not having driven it for several months (was at the body shop) and I find that it's shifting is pretty decent (DC stage 1 clutch- very nice clutch!)- at one point the shifting in the wife's car seemed better. It's WAY noticeable after driving the 6spd (02m) which has a newer DMF (it's a PD150), as that transmission and clutch are super smooth. I find that if I'm thinking that the transmission is shifting less well than I think it should that it's probably a lot worse than I think! Been driving the wife's car here and there and the thing is shifting really ugly. I tend to only recommend the AC Delco fluid to folks that live in cooler climates for elsewhere I'm comfortable with recommending the Pennzoil (I haven't used it, but my research turned up enough information that makes me pretty darn confident of its capabilities). It's when it's warmer out that thinner stuff tends to produce less favorable results. G070 is actually thin, so in winter it should behave better. Snakeye, yes, you NEED "with Friction Modifiers." If you get the stuff without it you're going to slip! Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure I covered everything I have attempted to fix this issue - any input would be greatly appreciated! My train of thought here is that water/air is compressible & that it will slow the operation of the slave cylinder, meaning the clutch is still engaged when I am attempting to shift? 1 and re-bleed everything in hopes that there is somehow water or air in the fluid as this has not been changed at all in my ownership. The next and final thing on my list is to completely drain the clutch/brake hydraulics, replace all the fluid with brand new DOT5. One thing I have noticed is that the clutch bites higher than it used to (about 1/3rd pedal travel before it bites), but I put this down to the VR6/G60 combo, meaning it has to travel further to bite - is this correct? Thankfully I have been able to do most of this myself so it hasn't cost me much in labour & my local dealer gives me a decent discount, so I can't complain, but as you can imagine it's really starting to wear away at my love for my car.
In an attempt to fix my issue, I have so far: Long story short: shifting (intermittently) feels like I'm trying to shift through a brick wall that suddenly turns into liquid a few seconds later, allowing me to move into the gear I was attempting to shift into - this is pretty intermittent though & seems to happen more in winter than in summer.
I own a MK4 Golf 1.8t o) but both these & the TDI's of the same era use the same transmission setups, so I'm hoping that someone over here may have the answer to my woes. So, first post here but long time lurker!
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